Monday, February 15, 2010

More homestay time, with a whole lot of artists' lectures in the last few days. We've met with several dancers (and I can assure you that I am not all that talented at Balinese dance, and that it is WAY harder than it looks), a dalang (the person who pretty much singlehandedly orchestrates the shadow puppet performances), a batik artist, and a topeng mask maker. Starting Wednesday, I'll be studying with the mask maker, learning how to make the wooden masks used in topeng dances.

The topeng maker was fascinating -- his family has, for several generations, specialized in making these masks, and he spent his childhood watching his father work. He wasn't allowed to try, though, until he was 16, because the tools for topeng making are too sharp and require enough coordination that a child can't use them. Hopefully I'll manage them, though!

The topeng maker, with masks in several stages of the process.


Some of the finished masks.

We mahasiswa (students) had a free weekend, so we went to Uluwatu, a region on the bukit (the very southern tip of the island). The ecosystem there was different -- the soil isn't as rich there and everything is sitting pretty much on top of the limestone foundation, and it's drier and hotter. It's also one of the big surfing locales, so it had a more touristy vibe. The beaches were beautiful, though. On Saturday we walked from where we were staying at Padang Padang to Dreamland Beach, which I'm going to go ahead and claim earns its name. We also went to Pura Uluwatu, one of the larger temples in the area, and narrowly escaped being jumped on by monkeys. (Seriously, the monkeys around here are mean -- when you enter the temple there are signs telling you to hide any jewelry because the monkeys will steal it.)

Sylvie and Frances at Pura Uluwatu (imitating one of the better tourist poses).


Part of Pura Uluwatu. Note the evil, evil monkeys.


And to wrap up, to answer the comments from last post:

Mom -- I definitely will give my host family your greeting. I told them that you want to come visit now because of the snow, and they informed me that you are most welcome.

Ryan -- Ubud is kind of like very mini Beijing in the touristy sense, but it's a lot smaller and also I think more artsy. My bapak and ibu totally are rockstars. They speak a little bit of English, but not a ton -- enough to facilitate our communication. Also enough for my ibu to tell me her opinions of the characters on the soap opera we watch together.

J -- not yet. I'm working on it! I hear Jimbaran is the place for seafood, though.

Righto. Don't get too snowed in, all!

1 comment:

  1. You know, this is really interesting. I've never met you before--don't even have a clue who you are--but I just happened to google the complete phrase "there was also this time when we thought the woman who ran the puri killed the cat" and there your blog popped right up. Wild!

    Wilder still is that I, too, have slept through an earthquake. I was seven, and we were driving in Arizona, and I was asleep in the back of the minivan and never felt it.

    It's like you and I are the same person.

    I surely will be reading this religiously now, and following all of your travels and trials in the pursuit of maskmaking mastery.

    Best of luck to you!

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